Mezcál

We spent the day today learning about the production of, and sampling, mezcál.

Our guide Alvin picked us up at 10am and we headed to pick up another couple from near Toronto, who were joining us and who had done a tour with Alvin several years ago.

We headed out into the countryside and Alvin began explaining to us what mezcál is and how it differs from tequila. It was really interesting to learn how long the agave takes to reach maturity - around 15 years - and how manual the production of artesanal mezcál is. Palenqueros (mezcál producers) have been using the same methods for centuries. Piñas are roasted with heated stones in huge earthen pits, almost like a hangi but much deeper - up to twelve tons at a time. Once roasted, they are crushed by horse-drawn stone or even by hand, then fermented in large wooden vats. Some palenqueros have retained the use of stills made from clay pots, bamboo pipes and agave leaves.

Mezcál production is incredibly efficient and sustainable. The artesanal producers do not use fertiliser or pesticides. The agave are only watered when young if they are planted during the dry months and as they grow they don't need to be watered at all. Also, all the by-products of the various process are used and reused in subsequent processes, or for different purposes entirely. For example, the fibres left over from distillation are used to make adobe bricks, or to seal the still during distillation. The leaves cut off the agave are dried and used to fuel ovens for cooking and producing pottery.

We made several stops for tastings and explanations of the various methods used for parts of the production process.

After the tour we looked around the streets of Oaxaca and visited some shops. As it was Friday night there were a lot of locals out and about, and there was a lovely festive atmosphere.