Mezcál

We spent the day today learning about the production of, and sampling, mezcál.

Our guide Alvin picked us up at 10am and we headed to pick up another couple from near Toronto, who were joining us and who had done a tour with Alvin several years ago.

We headed out into the countryside and Alvin began explaining to us what mezcál is and how it differs from tequila. It was really interesting to learn how long the agave takes to reach maturity - around 15 years - and how manual the production of artesanal mezcál is. Palenqueros (mezcál producers) have been using the same methods for centuries. Piñas are roasted with heated stones in huge earthen pits, almost like a hangi but much deeper - up to twelve tons at a time. Once roasted, they are crushed by horse-drawn stone or even by hand, then fermented in large wooden vats. Some palenqueros have retained the use of stills made from clay pots, bamboo pipes and agave leaves.

Mezcál production is incredibly efficient and sustainable. The artesanal producers do not use fertiliser or pesticides. The agave are only watered when young if they are planted during the dry months and as they grow they don't need to be watered at all. Also, all the by-products of the various process are used and reused in subsequent processes, or for different purposes entirely. For example, the fibres left over from distillation are used to make adobe bricks, or to seal the still during distillation. The leaves cut off the agave are dried and used to fuel ovens for cooking and producing pottery.

We made several stops for tastings and explanations of the various methods used for parts of the production process.

After the tour we looked around the streets of Oaxaca and visited some shops. As it was Friday night there were a lot of locals out and about, and there was a lovely festive atmosphere.

Oaxaca

After a very early start and a wait in Mexico City airport we arrived in Oaxaca mid afternoon and headed straight to the bed and breakfast we were staying at - La Betulia. We immediately noticed a difference in the climate. Oaxaca is about 1500 metres above sea level and the air is much drier. It also cools down 15 to 20 degrees overnight which makes the mornings and evenings very pleasant.

The bed and breakfast was very cute, with rooms on two sides around an outdoor kitchen and breakfast area. The owners, Pia and Carlos, were super-friendly and gave us a map which included several restaurant recommendations. We headed to Zandunga - the closest - for an early dinner. The food and drinks were delicious and the wait staff extremely friendly.

After food we headed down to the Zócalo for a look around before returning to our accommodation for some much needed rest.

The next morning getting our breakfast at La Betulia was amazing. Freshly squeezed juices, tea, coffee, fruit, muesli, pastries, home made jam, plus a hot Oaxacan breakfast dish - poblano peppers with cheese and a side of black beans.

We spent the morning exploring the town a bit more and completing the scenic walk on our map that we'd started the afternoon before. We went inside the catedral. We then visited a convent which had been decommissioned. The building had fallen into disrepair until it was rediscovered and restored as a public building with a library and an exhibition spaces. We also visited the small textile museum next door with several rooms of colourful and delicate weaving and embroidery from the region.

In the afternoon we headed out of the city into the Oaxaca Valley on a tour with En Vía. This organisation provides zero-interest microfinance loans to women in business in six small towns/villages in the Oaxaca Valley. Instead of paying interest the women attend weekly meetings, monthly business classes and present to tour groups about their experiences with their businesses and loans. The tour fees fund the loans and give interesting insights into life and business in these small communities. Pia, from the bed and breakfast, was also the translator on our tour.

Our first stop was lunch, followed by a visit to the beautiful church in the renowned weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle. We then went to visit the home of the first two women presenting for the day.

The women explained their businesses and how the loans had changed things for them. Both women previously worked producing rugs for others and the loans enabled them to buy the wool needed to produce their designs and go into business themselves. After presenting and answering our questions the families demonstrated weaving for us. There were around 10 looms on site,  all set up with rugs at various stages of completion.

Our second visit was quite similar to the first, although the businesswoman had prepared more of a presentation which included an explanation of the materials used to create the natural dyes for the wool.

Our next stop was at the village of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec where we visited an internet cafe owner, a convenience store owner and a woman who sells door-to-door from catalogues. All had interesting stories to tell about their businesses.

Celestún

We decided to do a day trip to Celestún, as even though we were loving exploring Mérida we'd seen a lot in a short period of time and we were quite keen to see some wildlife - specifically flamingos - since we were so close.

Celestún is about two hours drive from Mérida and has a shallow estuary and mangrove forests which attract a lot of birds. Our group was split into two boats to make sure we weren't too heavy and prevent us from getting stuck on the shallow sandy bottom of the estuary.

The boat ride itself was pretty fun and we saw some locals out fishing with small boats and nets. It wasn't long until we spotted a few birds and then in the distance we could see some pink/orange blobs which as we moved closer turned out to be a group of flamingos!

A bit further ahead there was another much larger group. We watched them feeding - filtering small shrimp out of the sea water. The shrimp is what gives the flamingos their brilliant pink colour. After watching for a while we were lucky enough to see one bird take flight to start a new feeding group. Others followed and soon dozens of flamingos were soaring low across the water. It was so impressive to see them almost dancing across the top of the water on take off and landing. Seeing such a large bird in the air was extraordinary.

We headed into the mangroves to look for other birds and our driver spotted a juvenile crocodile. Travelling through the tunnels formed by the mangroves was fun and had an adventurous air about it.

We stopped at a fresh water spring which bubbles up through the seawater - a low lying cenote. There were many fish in the water and we were able to have a refreshing swim before heading back on the boat.

We drove into the the town of Celestún, which is right on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, for lunch right on the beach. We sat with another couple from near Toronto in Canada who were also really enjoying Mérida.

After lunch we wandered around the small town. The downtown area consists of one main street along the beach and the main square with its picturesque church. There was time to relax in the sun on the beach before heading back to Mérida.

In the evening we had time to visit the Casa de Montejo, which originally housed soldiers before being turned into a stately home with very opulent decoration and furniture on display. We also visited the Catedral.

For dinner we went to a Frida Kahlo themed restaurant which has a large white rabbit in residence.